Goa is a former Portuguese enclave, now India’s smallest state, located in the Konkan region along the west coast of peninsular India, the Arabian Sea forming its 110km coastline.  It has long been a popular destination for birders, enticed by the diversity of birdlife and remarkable ease of birding. 

Broadly speaking, Goa can be dissected into three ecological regions – the low-lying coastal plain with its mangroves-lined estuaries and marshes, the central dry, rocky plateau of scrub and savannah grassland, and the undulating forested interior.  From the coast Goa rises into the Sahyadri Range of the Western Ghats which run the length of its eastern boundary less than 70km away, the close proximity of the ghats to the sea resulting in a rapid variation in habitat across Goa’s breadth that is reflected in the significant diversity of species found within its borders.  Furthermore, Goa is situated at the junction of Konkan, Malabar (southern), and Deccan (central peninsular) fauna, elements of all of which are evident in Goa’s ecology. 

Goa has a birdlist of over 450 species, including 17 of the 28 species endemic or near-endemic to the Western Ghats.  A small area, combined with a well-developed infrastructure, makes it possible for the most productive of Goa’s birding localities to be thoroughly covered within a short timeframe without the need of lengthy travel, and given a couple of weeks it is possible to reach a list of 250-310 comprising more widespread Indian species, regional endemics, and overwintering migrants. 

Birding sites in Goa

Baga fields:

The open fields extending from Arpora into the centre of Baga are an important open space hosting various pipits among a good selection of raptors and more widespread Indian species.  Key birds in this area include Blyth’s, Paddyfield, Tawny, Olive-backed, and Richard’s Pipits, Oriental Skylark, Malabar and Rufous-tailed Larks, Scaly-breasted and White-rumped Munias, Wire-tailed and Red-rumped Swallows, Eurasian Hoopoe, Indian Roller, Indian Baya Weaver, Pied Bushchat, Indian Black Robin, Long-tailed, Bay-backed, and Brown Shrikes, and Spotted Owlet.  The marshy areas behind the Beira Mar hotel in Baga (access through the hotel; non-residents welcome into the restaurant area – stand on the swimming pool patio and scan the marsh below) host an array of sought after birds, including Greater Painted-snipe, Ruddy-breasted Crake, Slaty-breasted Rail, and Cinnamon Bittern.  This is also an excellent vantage point to watch a variety of raptors over the fields.

Baga Hill, Saligao Zor, Arpora Woods:

Small patches of mature woodland, such as that surrounding Saligao Zor (spring), host a selection of species such as Grey-fronted Green-pigeon, White-cheeked and Coppersmith Barbets, Verditer and Asian Paradise Flycatchers, and Asian Koel while undeveloped scrub, such as Arpora woods (Club Cubana hill), provides good habitat for Asian Brown Flycatcher, Vernal Hanging-parrot, Grey-headed and Rosy Starlings, Purple Sunbird, Jerdon’s Leafbird, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, and Black-lored Tit.  The woodland and scrub at the top of Baga Hill, the rocky headland bordering Baga to the north, has been a good site however it has sadly been sold for development and now suffers restricted access and disturbance.

Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary:

30 minutes drive from Backwoods Camp, Bondla covers only 8 square km however it holds some excellent mixed forest at the foot of the Western Ghats.  Birdlife is largely similar to that of the Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary however a few additional species, such as White-browed Bulbul and Blue-faced Malkoha, can be found here while species such as White-rumped Shama, Forest Wagtail, Rufous Woodpecker, Grey Junglefowl, and Crested Hawk-eagle can appear more regular here.   An excursion to Bondla is included in stays of 3 or more nights at Backwoods Camp – see our excursions page for details.

Carambolim Lake:

One of the largest and most productive wetlands in Goa, Carambolim is a large, marshy, lotus-covered lake, filled with an abundance and variety of waterbirds.  Although the amount of water in the lake varies greatly with the seasons and agricultural use, regular species here include Purple Swamphen, White-breasted Waterhen, Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Garganey, Northern Pintail, Lesser Whistling-duck, Cotton Teal, Indian Spot-billed and Comb Ducks, Asian Openbill, and Oriental Darter.  The lake is surrounded by scrub, paddy fields, and woodland good for Brown Hawk-owl and various woodpeckers, bee-eaters, and parakeets.  Raptors including Western Marsh Harrier, Indian Spotted and Booted Eagles, and Osprey are regularly drawn to the activity.

Chorao Island & Mayem (Maem) Lake:

Chorao Island lies in the centre of the Mandovi River, where tidal creeks and flooded fields are productive for waders and waterbirds, including Wood, Green, and Terek Sandpipers, Temminck’s Stint, Western Reef-egret, Purple Heron, Lesser Adjutant, and Woolly-necked Stork.  Adjacent Mayem Lake, accessed via Chorao, is surrounded by tree-covered sloped excellent for birds such as Orange-breasted Green-pigeon, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Little Spiderhunter, Loten’s Sunbird, Grey-bellied Cuckoo, Indian Scimitar-babbler, Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpecker, Changeable Hawk-eagle, and Indian Jungle Nightjar, and is a regular site for Brown Fish-owl.

Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary:

An easy day trip if you are staying in the south; a long drive or overnight stay if you are coming from the north (3hrs).  The mixed deciduous forests of the reserve, noticeably drier than those of the Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary, are home to a similar array of species as found in and around Backwoods Camp, although some of the more sought after forest specialities, such as Forest Wagtail and White-bellied Woodpecker, can be more confiding here. 

If you would like to visit Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary we can arrange overnight accommodation in a comfortable hotel, along with transport and guiding (if required) – contact us for information and prices.

Dona Paula plateau:

Located on the northern shore of the Zuari River, Dona Paula has become a residential suburb of the capital city, Panjim, and is being developed at an alarming rate.  The rocky plateau in its natural state was an excellent site for dryland species, in particular Yellow-wattled Lapwing and Ashy-crowned Finch-lark.  A few patche3s of productive dry grassland remain and are worth a look given a few spare hours, particularly for the lapwing which can be difficult to see elsewhere.

Fort Aguada:

Fort Aguada is the largest and best-preserved of Goa’s Portuguese forts, built in 1612 to defend the Mandovi Estuary.  Today the ruins of the fort, occupying the headland on the northern shore of the Mandovi River, which separates the northern tourist resorts from the capital Panjim to the south, are surrounded by scrub home to a variety of species including Common Iora, and Rufous Treepie.  The road from Candolim through Sinquerim and up to the fort passes alongside a productive patch of marsh and mangrove fed by a tributary of the Nerul River, good for herons, egrets, and shorebirds, while the area has been a regular site for overwintering Indian Pitta.

Morjim Beach:

On the northern shore of the Chapora Estuary Morjim is one of the quieter beaches of the northern coastline and the best site for gulls and shorebirds, being a high tide roost for species such as Great Black-headed, Brown-headed, Heuglin’s, and Slender-billed Gulls, Great and Lesser Crested, Gull-billed, and Caspian Terns, Lesser and Greater Sandplovers, Small Pratincole, and White-bellied Sea-eagle.  At low tide these same species can be found on the several extensive sand banks that become exposed mid-channel.

Zuari River boat trip:

Cruise up the estuary of one of Goa’s major rivers, the Zuari, and into the mangrove-lined Cumbarjua Canal in search of Collared Kingfisher, a scarce and sporadically distributed species, alongside Stork-billed, Black-capped, and Lesser Pied Kingfishers, Osprey, White-bellied Sea-eagle, Great Crested, Lesser Crested, Sandwich, Little, and River Terns at close range, Mugger Crocodile in the canal and pods of Indo-Pacific Hump-backed Dolphin in the estuary.  Tours are accompanied by a professional birding guide; prices as follows:

If 4 participants – INR 1800 per person

If 5-8 participants – INR 1500 per person

If 9-12 participants – INR 1200 per person

Prices are inclusive of pick-up and drop-back to a base in north Goa (Panjim, Calangute, Baga, Arpora); if you require a transfer from elsewhere in Goa please contact us to discuss your arrangements. 

We do not have a fixed day of operation for this tour but attempt to put together a larger group to reduce costs for each participant.  If you would like to join a boat trip please contact us in advance. 

Birding logistics

Where to stay:

Accommodation in Goa is largely concentrated in two main centres along the coast – the northern coastline (Candolim, Calangute, Baga, Arpora, Anjuna) and the south (Majorda, Colva, Varca, Cavelossim, Mobor). 

Since almost all of the above mentioned sites are located in north Goa, it is more convenient to visit them from a base in the north, rather than travel up from the south (approx. 1-1.5hrs), even though the south is the quieter of the two locations.  There are plenty of hotels to choose from, but from a birding perspective our suggestions in this area are:

Marinha Dourada, Arpora

Riverside, or Riverside Regency, Baga

Beira Mar, Baga

Ronil Royale, Baga

Marbella Guesthouse, Sinquerim

If you are coming to Goa through a holiday company the cost of your holiday will usually be inclusive of flights plus accommodation, however if you need to book you accommodation independently we can easily make a booking at any of these hotels, or any other hotel in Goa, on your behalf, just contact us with your requirements. 

How to get around:

Taxis (seating 3 to 4) are relatively cheap and readily available around the resort areas.  Many drivers will know the main birding sites, making Goa one of the few places where it is easy enough to bird independently without the necessity of joining a guided tour.  Countless trip reports are available online to help with your pre-tour planning, however do contact us if you need more information or advice. 

Birding guides:

If you would like us to arrange a guide for you for a day or two, a week, or even for the duration of your stay in Goa, please contact us in advance – we can also make all additional arrangements for your daily excursions, including transport.

Tour groups:

If you are planning a tour of Goa for a group of birders we can make all necessary arrangement for your tour, including accommodation (at Backwoods Camp, along the coast if required, and at any other sites included in your itinerary), the necessary transport according to your group size, and a guide to accompany your group throughout.